How I Spent Three Days Exploring the Food and Culture of Old San Juan
Less than four hours from wheels-up in Washington DC, I sat in a café across from my boutique hotel on Fortaleza Ave in Old San Juan. I started the day in jeans, a long sleeve shirt, and a jacket, but by lunch, I was dining in a sundress and sandals. Lunch was Arroz Con Pollo (Chicken & Rice) and a crafted cocktail—the perfect way to start this foodie lovers’ trip to Old San Juan.
As I am writing this in April 2023, it is easy to travel to Puerto Rico and Old San Juan—no passport needed, and it’s not an international flight. Will Puerto Rico vote to become independent? That was a discussion on the 3-hour and 15-minute flight. But, even if they do, I am sure they will still welcome visitors with open arms. There’s a reason that locals call it “the happy island”, and I can not wait for my foodie lovers trip to Old San Juan.
A Three Day Plan
San Juan, Puerto Rico capitol building.
This was not my first visit to the historic city, but I will admit that I spent ample time researching restaurants, street food, local coffee shops, and crafted cocktails for this year’s trip. That’s what travel writers that also love local food and beverages do. Their bucket list often includes restaurants and corner diners. But, I would be amiss if I did not mention Old San Juan’s history.
I could have stayed in a Hilton or a Sheraton, but I decided to stay in the heart of Old San Juan. I wanted to be within walking distance of historic sites and sight of the famous Umbrella Street. So, I booked a room in a small, ten-room hotel. Was it quirky? Of course. But that is what you expect when the building is hundreds of years old. I could easily walk everywhere, and the colors of the ancient city surrounded me.
The History of Old San Juan
The Spanish founded what is now Old San Juan in 1519. The city is the oldest continuously inhabited post-European contact city in the United States territory and the second oldest in the Western Hemisphere. If you would like to learn about the history of San Juan, I suggest this article by the National Park Service. If you have a National Park Pass, be sure to bring it along on your visit to Old San Juan.
While strolling the streets and sidewalks of Old San Juan, you cannot help but notice the roads of blue cobblestones, and the brightly colored buidlings. Many of the town squares are dotted with fountains or statues. The blue cobblestones and the Spanish architecture tell the history of this seventy-block historic district.
A Pina Colada—the National Drink of Puerto Rico
The Pina Colada. Did you know that San Juan is the birthplace of the Pina Colada? I stopped by Barrachina for an afternoon cocktail. (The bar where the famous drink was invented? —Or was it at the Caribe Hilton?) My bartender told me that the San Juan Pina Colada is yellow, has more pineapple than coconut, and is made with dark rum. Barrachina is a great place to enjoy a Pina Colada, with its courtyard seating, tropical plants, and bubbling fountain, but it was time to capture some photos in the late afternoon light.
What is “Umbrella Street?” It’s called El Paseo de Sombrillas and is meant to symbolize that Puerto Rico is fun, vibrant, and resilient. Will umbrellas be hanging during your visit? There’s no way to know. American and Puerto Rican flags hang along the street, sometimes giant flowers and, at times, nothing. I was delighted to find a colorful array of umbrellas hanging along the street, and the late afternoon light was perfect for photographs.
Day Two of a Foodie Lovers Trip to Old San Juan
My favorite time of day to explore is early morning. I like to watch a town come alive for the day. It’s the best time to capture the essence of local life. My visit to Cafeteria Mallorca did not disappoint. I arrived just before 7 AM to find a group of locals waiting for the diner to open as staff placed just-baked treats in a window display. I decided to sit on a counter stool with the locals. (This is an excellent time to mention that I have not spoken Spanish in a few decades—and it did not matter) I was on a mission: A coffee, a Mallorca, and a coconut macaroon to keep as an afternoon snack. Here, I found all three.
Mallorcas are sweetbread, often topped with powdered sugar. They can also be sliced open and filled with meat, cheese, or chocolate. My waiter at Cafeteria Mallorca encouraged me to order the ham and cheese filled. The contrast between the salty ham and the sweet bread, with lots of powdered sugar, was terrific. So was the macaroon, which was enjoyed later in the day. Puerto Rican coffee deserves its mention later in this blog.
How Do You Make a Mojito?
My second mission of the day was to learn to make the perfect Mojito. For this mission, I walked to the waterfront and boarded a ferry to Catano. (You will then take a short taxi or Uber) I was on my way to Casa Bacardi. In 1960, Bacardi left Cuba and moved its distillery to Puerto Rico. Today, visitors may purchase a ticket to visit the distillery and the museum and take a mixology class. Upon arrival, you are greeted at a Welcome Center and offered a cocktail—of course, I ordered the Mojito. In addition to the class, where you learn to make two cocktails, I found the museum very interesting.
(If you would like to add an excursion to Casa Bacardi to your visit to San Juan, let me know)
What is Mofongo, and where do I find it? Some call Mofongo the national dish of Puerto Rico, and you can find a version of it at most Old San Juan restaurants and cafes. (And I enjoyed it at a few). As you stroll around OSJ, you will see outdoor cafes along streets and in allies. Each with colorful umbrellas and blooming plants. It’s part of the charm of this old city. Mofongo is a Puerto Rican dish with mashed plantains as its main ingredient, along with garlic, broth, and olive oil. It is often topped with sauces, meats, and vegetables. You can order it at any tourist restaurant, but the best place to enjoy it is in a small diner or an outdoor café. It’s part of the experience.
Day Three of a Foodie Lovers Trip to Old San Juan
My second full day in Puerto Rico was spent taking photos at Castillo San Felipe del Morro (National Historic Site), walking along the water, and enjoying some of OSJ’s sweet treats. The historic city was built on hills, and the temperature is tropical. The perfect way to beat the heat is to enjoy refreshing shaved ice, a limber, or gelato on a stick.
Senor Paleta has over 20 flavors of gelato and sorbet made into gourmet bars. A frozen treat on a stick is the perfect way to cool off as you walk the streets and climb the hills in search of the next great photograph or a piece of OSJ art.
What is a limber? It has the texture of a popsicle but is frozen into a plastic cup—without a stick. My favorite flavors are tropical such as passion fruit. Push up the flavored ice to enjoy or eat with a spoon. Eat it fast as it melts!
I’ll admit that the Puerto Rican coffee is a favorite. Coffee has been grown on the island since the 1700s. I stopped at Caficultura, located on San Francisco Street, overlooking Colon. You can enjoy locally grown, roasted, and brewed coffee here at outdoor or indoor seating.
Time to Say “Good-by”…For Now
My foodie lovers’ trip to Old San Juan is ending. A fourth visit to Old San Juan concludes with another early morning visit to Cafeteria Mallorca and some coffee, served in a small paper cup with hot milk. The taxi ride back to the airport takes about 20 minutes and costs $25, including a fee for my roller bag. I travel Carry-On Only and often post travel and packing tips in the Tour Plan International monthly newsletter. Sign Up to receive our monthly newsletter.
